Friday, 8 May 2009

It’s Autumn!

One of the most colourful seasons of the year, autumn has many photographers stopping in their tracks to capture it’s beauty.

How is the best way to photograph that vibrancy and beauty in a meaningful way? A way that shows the emotion, the colour yet add your own personal touch.
Here’s a few tips for your autumn photography:
Choosing Your Subject
It’s not all leaves! Yet those leaves do draw our attention, don’t forget autumn also means other things: birds are migrating, if autumn rains have fallen fungi are sprouting, other plants such as cactus and autumn perennials are flowering and what about that fog wafting through the valleys, around the tress and along the creeks early in the morning?
Back to the leaves, which always rank high on our list of ‘must get’ shots. What a palette of colours Mother Nature provides us with and this is where we have to have a little think as each day of autumn presents another array of changing tones. If you’re out early in the season there will still be a lot of green, later the deciduous trees will be almost or completely stark and around their trunks the ground will be carpeted thick with leaves ranging from reds to bronzes, oranges and yellows – a wonderful contrasting yet colourful sight.

Know where to find deciduous plants. Grape vines are deciduous so vineyards can provide us with great subject choices.Try botanical gardens which often have specimen plants from across the globe. Remember not all tree species change their colour at the same time.
Position, Position, Position
Look for the best angle – sometimes this is pretty obvious straight away but look around and take images from not just head-on and eye level. Ask yourself what is the best view point? Is it better from a worms eye view, lower to the ground or higher up? Try lying on the ground – look up, along it or gain more height. There’s nothing actually wrong with carrying a step ladder around in the back of the car, climbing a tree or using the roof rack on your car. Don’t limit your choices. Always remember safety first!
Composition
Yep, there’s that word again! We are capturing a tiny slice of our huge world and presenting it in a 2D rectanglar image. Be creative, know the rules, use them and of course know when and how to break them.

Aim for balance, use contrast supplied by nature wisely, bring elements close to the lens, get in close, isolate your subject, try some with angles and look for the tiny details as well as the overall scene.
When to Shoot
We all know the mornings are getting cooler and its much nicer to snuggle in bed but......
Photographers love the ‘Magic Hour’ though here in Australia it’s not really an hour. It’s a tiny slice of time before and just after the sun breaks the horizon on its way up and down each day. This is when we get the golden light where the sun emits a warmer or orange tone and is a softer and more diffused light source.

Check out the grass, now being burned by the falling overnight temperatures – look at its contrast and texture in this light. And what about those leaves? They will glow and shadows can be dramatic and moody. Then there’s that fog drifting through the valleys, along the creeks and around the mountain ridges only available early in the morning.

Just because the clouds gather don’t put the camera away and reach for a book on the couch instead. Overcast days give us lovely even lighting providing an added hand from nature for richer colours and contrast.
How to Shoot
Our rule of thumb is to choose the lowest ISO you can depending on your cameras capabilities. But most cameras can comfortably shoot up to 400 ISOO without too much noise.

Shutter speed you may not think should matter when you are photographing leaves or a tree, however if there is the slightest breeze that leaf/leaves may be blurred if your shutter speed is too slow. Keep an eye on it and if it falls too slow go to 1/250th of a second or higher to freeze that action.
Why not try using the wind to your advantage and painting a picture? Put your camera on a tripod, set a slow shutter speed, use a cable release, or remote or the cameras self timer and expose for a ¼ second or longer depending on the wind. Add to this zooming your lens in and out for an abstract effect. Who said photography was not art?

Trees can be so big! So if you are wanting that whole tree/s sharp you’ll need to use a small aperture and focus to gain maximum benefit of your focusing thirds. If you have a depth of field preview button use it!
Over and under exposing: overexposing can bring out the subtle tones while underexposing gives deeper and richer colours.

Use a polarising filter to enhance those rich colours by increasing the saturation and the wonderful blue skies we have in autumn will be captured beautifully by the polariser decreasing the haze.

Unless you can really capture something unique try not shooting directly into the sun as this will often produce lens flare and decrease saturation. When you do shoot into the sun, make sure you use a lens hood and if you don’t have one use something else: a hand, cap, notebook or anything to shield the lens.
Change the white balance and warm up those shots – we love cloudy or shade and play with your custom settings.

Don’t delete on the shoot. Wait till you get home and have a look at the images on the computer screen. You’ll often see something you may like and could have overlooked while out shooting.

It’s not all over when you finish your shoot. Back up immediately when you get home and then process your images. If you have shot in RAW you need to post process but don’t overdo it.

Have fun – get on out there and capture this wonderful season!
The birds are singing, the trees are turning and it’s time for us
to get those shutters clicking!
(c) 2009
Written by Danielle Lancaster - Bluedog Photography

Photographing Snakes

I am a self confessed scaredy cat of snakes, yet they fascinate me (and many others) and a great photograph of a snake is a prize in any wildlife photographer’s portfolio.

Getting a good, or great image of these slithering reptiles is not easy and I must stress here can be potentially lethal.
First Rule is: knowing your subject! Snakes don’t like the cold, they react to movement, they move silently, many are nocturnal and all will strike if they feel threatened or are harassed.

Most snake photography you see in books has been done under controlled and carefully planned conditions.

Tips for Snake Photography
Never, ever compromise your or anyone else’s safety. Better to leave alone than entice a situation that may become life threatening. A general rule of thumb is a snake’s striking range is 1/3rd of its total body length – impossible to guess when they are coiled up.If confronted by a snake stay perfectly still.

While out in the bush wear closed in sturdy boots and long pants. Carry a first aid kit – they make great ones that clip onto your belt or at least carry a compression bandage and a mobile phone or emergency beacon. Remember just because a snake is not venomous does not mean it’s OK to be bitten – they have bacteria on their fangs and in their mouths which can cause a nasty infection.

It is illegal to capture and transport a snake without a specific permit in all states of Australia.
Do not make sudden movements in front of the snake. They will get nervous and may strike and bite. Keep your movement very, very slow and never ever take your eye off the snake.
Snakes always look in best condition just after they have shed their old skin.
Snakes are more active during the heat of the day as the temperature rises – this is when they move faster!

DO NOT place a snake in a fridge or freezer to ‘slow it down’. This is a cruel practise and above all different snakes can tolerate different cool temperatures and you may kill the snake with exposure to cold.
Using a tripod is often out of the question – if you can that’s great but......
If photographing snakes behind glass use a polariser filter.

An image of the head (better with the tongue flickering) will have a much greater impact then a snake totally stretched out because a stretched out snake takes up only a small thin part of your image. A snake coiled makes a pleasing symmetrical image.

Pre focus if possible. We often use a cable release to limit the movement of our hand to and from the camera.

Equipment & Technique:
We use a digital SLR and a range of lenses including 105mm macro (keeps us a little further from the subject – the 180 and 200mm are also great) and a 70-300mm.
Use flash sparingly and if need be diffuse it or bounce it to make it softer.
ISO’s are kept as low as possible.
Modes – Aperture priority or manual.
Always be kind to them – they are an animal of our planet, have a place in the ecosystem and deserve our respect.
A TOP BLUEDOG PHOTOGRAPHY TIP
Remember when working in the outdoors to keep your camera bag zipped up. Snakes move silently, your bag is warm and it may just provide them a perfect place to coil up for a rest.

Friday, 1 May 2009

April Winner

The winner of the Bluedog Photography 'Subscribe' voucher for April is...........drum roll.............. Sam K. from Brisbane!
Congratulations Sam you can use your $50.00 voucher for any photography workshop, retreat or tour!!

http://www.blue-dog.com.au/newsletter-photography.htm

10 Reasons Why You Should Do Photography

1. Why not?
2. Because it's fun!

3. It get's you out and about.

4. It de-stresses - that's always a bonus!!

5. You meet new people.

6. You see the world in a different way.

7. You get some exercise - um..... better than sitting in front of a computer!

8. Learn a new skill - or improve on one.

9. It's fun being part of the world's greatest hobby!

10. It's fun!!!!!

Wednesday, 29 April 2009

Tips For Photographing Brids

1. When a bird is in flight use a fast shutter speed.

2. Know how to exposure compensate – your camera will meter read a black bird and make it grey.

3. Know the bird’s habitat, what it sounds like, eats, likes to do. Have an idea what’s in an area. No good looking for Sea Kites in the outback, or Galahs on the beach! Do they live on the ground or up high in a tree, can they fly, dive or swim? It will all help you find them.

4. Never stress a bird. If getting close to the nest stresses the chicks or the parents watching you from nearby simply go away. Always be kind to the birds.

5. Know your equipment and its limitations

6. Fill the frame with the bird

7. Be patient

Tuesday, 28 April 2009

Create A Frame For the View

I love using frames! And not just to mount my images in.
How many of us when we travel want a room with a view? Why not use that window?
Frames help direct the viewers eye into the image - there's the frame of the image border then the frame of the window called a frame-within-a-frame. They also help add depth and contrast.
This image here I shot at Eton Beach in Vanuatu. The colour contrast and saturation works well too.

Saturday, 25 April 2009

Photography - Great For the Mind, Body and Soul!

DID YOU KNOW?
Photography is the world’s most popular hobby.
More people now own a camera than golf clubs or a fishing rod.

This is largely due to the digital era and the progress of digital photography over the past ten years.

No longer are people waiting in anticipation for that roll of film to be developed, they have their images immediately and can share it with others via email. What we are now seeing is a resurgence in photography, similar to when George Eastman, the founder of Kodak, released the first compact camera in 1888 simply because he wanted to simplify photography and make it available to others.

Getting into photography has more benefits than just capturing a great image. It gets people out enjoying and learning about their environment, they meet new people and make friends, go to new places which provides a little exercise, and plays a part decreasing stress in our ever busy time poor lives.
Photography is an antidote for stress! Better than any pill to swallow!!