The Meeting of Beers and Books

Words and Images by Danielle Lancaster

“Men are just like Woolies specials, we all think we have got to have them.” This was one of the first lines uttered to us by Margaret as she walked behind the bar at the Mungallala Hotel this morning.  Did we agree – well more on that later.

“I see you girls have a sense of humour, so what brings you here?” she asked looking over her glasses and eyeing us inquisitively. After a few quick introductions we were drawn away from the bar inspecting the walls graffitied with black pen from the many who had set foot through the doors before us.

Scattered amongst the signings, verses and doodles are memorabilia from days long past. Stirrups, water bags, old hats, basins, even a string of surveyor chain, all meticulously de-cobwebbed forming more of a museum in tribute to earlier life on the land in this part of western Queensland. Some more modern pieces such as the toilet signs are more humours and add additional character to this outback pub.

Many pass this pub standing idle on the corner on their journey west. From the outside you maybe could understand why. The shady verandas don’t lend a hint to the treasures inside.

Of the many items adorning the walls and scattered around the pub, the most precious thing in this pub has to be Margaret. 

Margaret came to Mungallala as a teacher from Ipswich. “I’m an import as I’ve only been here 45 years. It was a bit of a culture shock I can tell you. There was no electricity, running water and of course with no power, no sewage. Electricity finally came in 1971 and then within 18 months we had sewage. We didn’t know ourselves.”

“I retired in 1998 and my husband decided I needed something to do with my Superannuation so we bought the pub. Grand plans were for one of our sons to run it but they had a couple of kids in a couple of years and the two don’t go well together so now I’m here,” she laughs.

I’ve visited a lot of pubs (those of you that know me well can keep your chuckles to yourselves and comments for that matter) but I think I’ve never seen one with such a collection of books. In fact, there is a whole section devoted to second hand books. A new box has arrived today and Margaret is busily going through it as she tells us they don’t get them unless I’ve read them. There’s even a collection of the old cowboy paperbacks where the rough cowboy is pictured with a luscious looking lady busting from her low cut laced up blouse.

We say our goodbyes and exchange business cards – Margaret’s is a bar coaster with her email address neatly written on the back.

Next time you are down this road, don’t drive past and say one day I must stop, simply do it. Be greeted by Margaret a lady of the outback, divine in her nature and a tribute to the women of this wonderful region.

More:

The original Mungallala Hotel burnt down in 1917 and the present hotel was built in 1918. There is a photograph of the original hotel on the wall above the juke box.

Mungallala, originated as a railway town and the name is said to mean 'food and water'. It is located about half way between Mitchell and Morven where the Warrego Highway crosses the Mungallala Creek. At the pub there is free camping; meals all day and hours may vary.

12 Redford St
Mungallala
Queensland 4467
Phone:  07 46236192      

So much to learn – so little time!!! Guest blog by Augustine Mathews

Often when Danielle goes on her out of town work she gets requests left and right for folks offering to “carry her bags” just so that they can join the journey. As with most things in life there is never enough room in the schedule to include a “fun” side trip to be able to share her travels. Lucky for me we had enough people booked into the classes Bluedog is presenting in Saint George (South Western Queensland) that an extra tutor was needed and I got the call up.

Now people often tell me that I have the best job on the planet – taking photos all the time but the reality is that often I am the last person to pick up a camera and snap away as I am busily helping others achieve their photographic ambitions. This time though distance was on my side. It has taken 2 days of, admittedly, fairly ‘easy’ driving to get out here to St. George so the opportunity to pause for a photo op is not one I would overlook. Now when I say easy driving, for those like Danielle who grew up in outback Queensland it might be easy, but I have to say – those big trucks with their 3 trailers swinging all over the road had my pulse rate rising a few times as we overtook them half on, half off the road, but thankfully Danielle knew when to sit back and when to pass.

And this was only the first lesson of many. We had the chance to visit the Nindigully pub and again, city slicker naiveté kicked in. This place is the oldest pub in Queensland and is a classic long verandah beside the river type of place with hitching rails out the front and corrugated iron on the roof. I asked was it working? “What do mean working?”, “Well, does it still serve beer?” Ooops! Apparently out here things are not just for show but actually are fully operational. “Cool! We have to go in for a beer!” was my cry and a beer was what I had. It was like a step back in time with ringers hats lining the walls and the original cobb and co. timetables still advertising coach trips. Absolutely brilliant.

     

Image by Danielle Lancaster

Image by Danielle Lancaster

We then went out to visit one of Danielle’s long term friends who has a little place just up the road. (I’ll tell you about him tomorrow except to say that his little place is 52,000 acres). As we were barrelling up a red dirt road we reached the turnoff onto the property and a sight I never would have believed had I not seen it myself. At the fork in the road stands a tree with the most grisly assortment of Christmas decorations I have ever seen. Desiccated dingos hanging by their back legs.

Now as a city slicker I had read of the “doggers” who trap the dingoes to aid the sheep farmers but I had never seen their handywork. It is amazing. The dingoes cause such problems with livestock losses that the doggers come in and trap or shoot the animals and are awarded a scalp price by the shire. To show that they are out and about working, the carcasses are hung to dry at the road junction. Now while I understand that this seems gruesome it is a part of living on the land. Visually, while a little disturbing, it was an incredible photographic opportunity. And I think the thing that makes it best for me, I had a country girl right next to me who knew what it was about and why it was done.

Image by Augustine Mathews

I tell you, if you ever want to learn about south-western Queensland, come join Danielle and get a real lesson.  Having a ball so far and the trip is a long way from done.